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Alex Couquelet

Descending from a family of French and Belgian heritage, and growing up and residing for 20 years in New Jersey, United States, Alex Couquelet grew up in a home of diverse backgrounds and cultures.  Alex’s education was molded through a private school, followed by a top ranked culinary college in Mays Landing, New Jersey, which enrolled many foreign chefs.    “I was an average kid… I was not a superstar as far as books go”, said Alex with confidence, “I cannot sit at a desk. I always have to move around”.    Beirut Restaurants : Tell us a little bit about your family and backgrounds.   Alex Couquelet : “My mother comes from France, my father from Belgium and I was born and raised in the United States. My father carried on with his family’s glassware (crystal) background, and my mother was a professor.    In France, my grandfather owned a hotel of which he was the chef. All my holidays were spent in France, with family gatherings hosted by my grandfather whom I used to spend a generous amount of time with in the kitchen, watching him cook and create dishes.”     So would you say your grandfather was a major influence in your decision to become a chef?   “Oh definitely. My grandfather was THE reason for my interest in the culinary world. From him, I was granted my motivation and inspiration to become a chef. I was always fascinated when lurking around the kitchen aiding him as he prepares meals from scratch to end result.”Alex spoke proudly as he went on describing the beauty of “raw” cooking, “we would literally start preparing the meals by plucking chickens.”     How did you get started with your chef career?   “After I graduated from culinary school, I worked in United States for a year, but found the level of food was not quite there yet.  So I returned to France in 1992 / 93 where I resided for 13 years, in the hopes of finding my calling. I started out as a small guy, going through the basic steps and levels any chef must undergo.”     Was it difficult?   “It was extremely hard and challenging working for the French culinary domain, with endless hours, overtime, no vacations… It was a challenge to earn their respect.”     Where there times when you just wanted to quit?   “No not at all!” Alex exclaimed, wearing a feisty and a grin on his face. “I knew it was an investment for me. I had all the confidence that this was something I was going to have to put up with, in order to reach my desired goal. You cannot escape being a commis, premier commis etc…”   Alex leaned forward and continued with a determined tone, “Along with that, the way I see and plan things is through patience. I take my time studying every angle before I leap. Once I do leap, I never struggle with doubts and regrets. I go all the way no matter what may find its way to weigh me down.”   Alex lets out a light laugh and says, “Besides, there was something about this “abuse” that I liked, such as the rebellious nature of the kitchen. The heartless and tough treatments the higher authorities inflict on those working below them. It also taught me skills I need in pursuing my career.”     How long did you last in this “rebellious” kitchen?   “Quite some time, until my friends kept throwing suggestions that I take on a chef position, then open my own restaurant.  I thought to myself, ok why not, I was not ready before; as I mentioned, I take my time in planning before I go ahead and implement. I realized that I could handle my own business now, so I turned the page. Now you’re a chef, let’s start.”     I admire your approach on “turning point” decisions. Some leap in impatiently and then deal with the mess; they either get lucky or realize they haven’t thought it through.   “It’s all about honesty really. Be honest to yourself. Grasp and accept what it is you are capable of doing and what you are not.  “I knew I was not ready before, but after this experience, I felt I was, which motivated me to start looking to be a chef in some well renowned restaurant or hotel. The drawback there was that all the chefs working in good places such as the Ritz Carlton remain working there for 20 to 30 years. Thus, ridding young talents of any room to inject what they’ve got to offer into the “chef” world.  I did not want to merely work at any random and ordinary place. I always like to take things further. I hate doing things the way others do. I like to constantly try something new and original, and if I am confined with working with ordinary dishes, I would always find a way to add that twist -- be it in an additional flavor, presentation and so on.”     When and why did you decide to work in Lebanon?   “Since France was not providing me with the job I was seeking, I headed back to the US to San Francisco in order to ignite my career plans. Unfortunately the war with Iraq left the economy shaky, which was not in my favor. So I decided I would try somewhere new to me and not limit myself to what is familiar. In May 2004 I got offered a job at Element in Beirut and flew in to begin my new path. For my first year in Beirut, I created dishes at Element, entailing a fusion of French and Asian cuisines, which still are in demand today!  One of my hits at Element was a Pan seared sesame TORO  (Fatty Tuna), an enoki mushroom salad, with an Asian vinaigrette or calamari salad satay style. Until this day, people demand this dish.”     So these people demanding your dishes look for you and follow up on your whereabouts?   “Yes, they followed me to Le Gouraud as well as to MABU, which is where I am presently working. Word of mouth is definitely the quickest and most efficient means of advertising almost anything. The crucial aspect is that you must be able to have these people put their trust in you.”     Are there any ingredients you can’t help but use over and over?   “Sure there is. Let’s say for spices, there is always that base you use from. I like to constantly try new things and get inspired to mix unusual ingredients forming unique dishes. So I would try to add to that base of spices, for example, or use them in different ways. It’s all about being able to trust your spontaneous nature at times and have the guts to try.”     Are there any family recipes you carry on?   “Yes there are, but I make them in my own way, adding what I have to offer. As I do with my grandfather’s Foie Gras, I make it based on his recipe yet I incorporate my own touch and twist to it.”     Is he still with us?   “No, sadly he is not. He passed away during my first year in Ohio.” Alex relieves a despaired breath and carries on. “I would have loved nothing more than to have him see how I have become a chef, all thanks to him.”     I am sorry to hear about that and that he has not lived to see what you have become. But we can safely say that he lives on through you. What are some of your favorite kitchen appliances and gadgets?   “My grandfather’s knives, which were passed on to me. So they are much appreciated. They have wooden handles that fit your grip nicely and firmly, are light in weight, they DO clean easy and the blades are just different than the ones made today. The steel used is not the same. I am also using some Japanese knives, which are also made of really good steel. “There is always some new gadget created and adopted by culinary fields and households. So there’s always something new to be used facilitating the cooking experience.”     Being a chef, and an ambitious and multitasking one, do you find it hard to shut down your brain from food?    “I have to force myself to switch my “food brain” off.”     Are you your typical chef who cooks but doesn’t care much to eat?   Alex smiles and says, “I don’t eat much.” He then laughs and goes on to share an ironic story. “I once started getting pains in my stomach and went to the doctor. It turned out it was due to malnutrition! “When I eat it’s more about  ‘I want this taste in my mouth’, and that’s how I decide what to eat. But I do prepare simple meals such as a sandwich or a salad when I am home. It is easier to cook for two than for one.”     How did you find Lebanese food?   “Well, when I first got here, I was taken to the best Lebanese restaurants in town; as a chef, I was impressed with the choice of ingredients in all the dishes, fascinated by the use of spices in meat and just loved how the chicken is marinated in certain dishes. I do like Lebanese food but for me it is more of a craving and I don’t think I will fall into the pattern of having it on a daily basis.  “It’s nice to have food landmarks.”     Have you incorporated Lebanese food, or the Lebanese touch to some of your dishes?   “Not yet, but I would like to start incorporating the Lebanese influence on some of my dishes. For instance, the spice “Semmak” is one that I am eager to add to my ingredients.”     You were working at Market up until it underwent renovation and reopened as MABU, which is where you are presently working. How has it been at Market and how do you find it will be at MABU?    “When I decided to work for Market, it was not at its peak, as some factors were bringing it down. I found working there to be a challenge, for at the end of the day, I could safely say I had aided in rebuilding this restaurant, as I would have handled it from the bottom to the top.” Alex went on ambitiously, “when I set my mind to something, that’s it.   “I worked there for a year now, as an Executive Chef and a Consultant, and we have finally reached the ability to exploit it as we had hoped we would a while back. We had so many plans to fully revive Market and pick it up to the top. It has finally been revived as far as interior goes, along with quality and variety. It reopened under a new name “MABU and MABU Grill “. “MABU is a larger concept, and more commercial. It is not different from what is being done in Beirut, but I aim to make every single element exceptional and different. As I did with the pizza at Market, by making it into a rectangular shape and slicing it into squares, along with using real fresh tomato sauce.   “We will be opening a “MABU Grill” at the roof top, with a casual ambiance of a barbeque theme where you go and choose your own meat (such as with fish).  It will have bricks on the outside and will be playing low music, all yielding a cozy ambiance.  “As for MABU a sushi bar in the middle with 12 seats has opened, along with a salad bar, a soup bar in winter and a wine section. “The dining room remained as is but with a new colorful and trendy look.    “Variety is the concept of MABU, where everything is found in one place, not solely a variety of dishes, but the actual area for each sort of dish and cuisine, such as exploring on a journey.     “It was really odd for me to see restaurants serving an entirely different fusion such as sushi and Italian. I have never seen it elsewhere. It seems to be working well in the Middle East. It is convenient for the customer. The customers will multiply, for a group can go to that restaurant aware that each one of them will be getting what they want. This sort of diverse fusion aids this factor and is to everyone’s benefit.     Any plans of opening your own restaurant, and where?   “Yes I do have plans for opening my own restaurant in Lebanon.”      Are you worried about investing in a restaurant to find an unstable political and/or economical situation in the future?   “I am completely positive about the situation in Lebanon, at least for the next five years, for Lebanon’s future is back on track for the good of people.”   “What is great about Lebanon and investing here is that it still has capital, as opposed to other places in the Middle East and the States. This, I believe is due to the fact that Lebanese people are born to rebound. Along with that, compared to working in Dubai, which was an option of mine prior to working at Le Gouraud, in Lebanon, I would be closer to its people, as opposed to being an “industrial” chef.   Alex pauses, sips his tea gathering his thoughts and goes on to expound, “People are nice. They are not to be taken for granted. If you give them something good, they will appreciate and acknowledge it. If you try to take advantage of someone, for example, frozen salmon as opposed to their request for fresh salmon, they will say nothing, but will simply never return. You have to give people what they deserve. I always place myself in the customer’s shoes, for that is literally the only way I can guarantee a satisfied audience.”     Given your experiences through the hierarchy of positions one goes through in a kitchen, and supposing you had opened your own restaurant already, how would you go about hiring your staff?   “Well, I take this issue very seriously and base it on a lot of meticulous calculations for I need to trust that my kitchen is run more than properly and professionally. I look for people who have talent, think about their future and career, and who speak English and French…”     English and French? How come so specific?   “I need to know what goes on in my kitchen. I’ve had experiences in kitchens where I wouldn’t understand the dominant language spoken, which was inconvenient. I am trying to learn Arabic as I go, however, my reflexes always come out in my mother language and I would like the team I am working with to understand and be able to communicate well with me on that level. That is part of reinforcing teamwork internally and maintaining consistency in quality externally.       Good point.   “I also look for respect. That is a main aspect for me, and simply honest and open-minded people.     What is the best advice you would give someone very interested in the culinary sector?   “Enter it as a passion. You cannot go in it for the money, or passive circumstances. Be passionate, creative, open-minded and make sure your time in the kitchen is an investment. It will pay off. You will become a workaholic, with no holidays. Then, you prove yourself and take it to the next level where your talent shines. “I started washing pots and dishes as a job during college, which I could safely say was my earliest approach to becoming a chef.”

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